Change Islands: A beautiful slice of outport Newfoundland

Change Islands is one of the nicest places in Newfoundland and Labrador, with beautiful trails and one of the province’s most unique attractions. 

Often overlooked by its larger and more popular cousin Fogo Island, Change Islands rarely get the attention they deserve. 

Note that while Fogo Island is singular, Change Islands is plural, despite also having only one inhabited island. 

Getting Here

Change Islands has ferry service to both Fogo Island and Farewell, the latter of which is connected to the rest of Newfoundland via highway. 

The ferry is fairly cheap and fast, taking only 20 minutes. Note that if you want to visit Fogo Islands after Change Islands, you will need cash, as the ferry terminal at Change Islands doesn’t accept credit cards. 

The ferry is interesting, you pay only when taking the boat east. For example, on the route Farewell → Change Islands → Fogo Island → Change Islands → Farewell, you would only pay when going from Farewell → Change Islands, and Change Islands → Fogo Island. 

The ferry is relatively comfortable, there are a few vessels that service this route, all are pretty good. Some vessels are owned and operated by the provincial government, while the Astron W is owned by Labrador Marine Inc., a subsidiary of the Woodward Group. 

The provincial government regularly updates its information about ferries. That can be found here. 

The ferry is about a 1 hour drive from Gander and the road is fairly well maintained with some rough sections. It is paved all the way through. 

Trails

There are several trails that dot Change Islands. I tried two of the three most visible trails, the other one being the Coastal Trail. 

The Squid Jiggers Trail and the Indian Lookout Trail are both beautiful and relatively easy. The Indian Lookout Trail was very well maintained, while the Squid Jiggers Trail could use some work. 

Prepare to get your feet wet for the Squid Jiggers Trail, there was one section that involved crossing some extremely shallow water. This is ocean water, so depending on the tide, it may be higher or lower. The area is extremely sheltered, however, so you don’t have to worry about waves. 

I ran into an American immigrant at the end of the Squid Jiggers Trail, who said he lives in Change Islands during the summer months and drives back to the US for the winter. 

Supplies

Change Islands doesn’t have any restaurants, but you can find at least one former restaurant and its remnants. 

There is a store and gas pump, but I did not visit the store during my trip. 

There is also a visitor information centre that is open during the summer months. 

There are also several AirBnBs on both Change Islands and Fogo Island. Fogo is also home to the Fogo Island Inn, if you have significant amounts of cash to burn through. 

Change Islands also has a campground that’s open during the Spring, Summer and Fall. You can’t book online, but you can call or email to make a reservation. 

Barkpot Campgrounds: 709-884-8597, 709-621,4541, fancyporter@gmail.com

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